art – My Plan C

Three days were not enough! But we gave it our best shot. There’s plenty to see and do in this old classic European City. It’s probably the best place to truly understand Poland and its rich history.

As we approached Kraków, the highway gave way to a grand boulevard. Stylish pedestrians strolled past modern storefronts housed in historic buildings. After five days as an odd trio of Americans navigating a land both unfamiliar yet strikingly reminiscent of suburban America, we found ourselves in a quintessential European city. Kraków exuded all the charm, energy, and grandeur of the world’s great cities.

Thanks to our guide and translator, Lucjan Cichochi, we had managed to overcome the language barrier during our PolishOrigins tour. As we prepared to part ways with him and venture out on our own, we reflected on how a few key phrases and a friendly attitude could go a long way in bridging communication gaps. Now, it was time for a little indulgence: the ease of English accessibility, the freedom of being a tourist, and the vibrancy of Kraków awaited us.

Ethan (my son), Ethan Luke (my grandson), and I had traveled over 200 miles across southeastern Poland by van, tracing our family roots. Over the past week, we experienced moments of wonder and joy as we discovered familial connections, met new relatives, and explored beautiful locales. Even when our leads seemed to run dry, the journey offered insights into Polish life and history, connecting us with our ancestors’ world.

After an enriching week in Poland’s rural heartlands, we turned our attention to Kraków—our final destination. Over the next three days, we planned to immerse ourselves in the city’s rich history and culture, which serve as a proud testament to Poland’s enduring spirit.

See all posts for this 2024 Poland tour here.

A Timeless City

Kraków, one of Poland’s oldest and most significant cities, became the country’s capital in 1038. Situated along the Vistula River, it has long been a hub for trade, linking the Baltic and Black Seas. During the Middle Ages, Poland grew into one of Europe’s most influential nations, with shifting borders reflecting its complex history of alliances, invasions, and leadership changes. Though the political capital moved to Warsaw in 1596, Kraków remained the intellectual, cultural, and historical heart of the nation.

Kazimierz: A Neighborhood with a Soul

Friday, June 14, 2024

We arrived in the afternoon at the Queen Boutique Hotel, a four-star gem nestled in the heart of Kraków’s Kazimierz district. With spacious rooms priced at a reasonable $130 per night, the hotel’s central location made it an ideal base for exploring nearby landmarks, including Wawel Castle, Old Town, and Podgórze.

That evening, we ventured out, guided by local restaurant recommendations. Just beyond our hotel, we crossed the leafy Dietla boulevard and entered Kazimierz. The area’s weathered facades, adorned with graffiti and steeped in history, told a story of resilience and rebirth.

A Challenging History

Once an independent town, Kazimierz became a haven for Jewish refugees fleeing persecution. By World War II, it had evolved into Kraków’s Jewish quarter, only to be devastated by the Nazis. During the communist era, Kazimierz remained neglected until the 1990s, when the movie Shindler’s List sparked a cultural revival.

Savoring Flavors and Music

Drawn by lively music, we stumbled upon a cozy plaza surrounded by restaurants. The weather at 7:30 p.m. in mid-June was still bright (darkness around 10:00 p.m.) and comfortable, perfect for eating outside and watching the crowd of visitors. We dined outside at AWIW, a Jewish-Polish café, as we broadened our culinary tastes with a mix of Polish, Jewish, and Middle Eastern dishes, all accompanied by traditional klezmer music.

After dinner we decided to explore more of Kasimierz. While looking rundown and dirty, this was the liveliest and most creative section in town, filled with historical buildings, galleries, and restaurants.

Tonight we set aside our hunt for the past and searched for the best homemade ice cream for dessert. It was not easy. There were too many places to choose from and it seemed we were not the only ones on that mission.

A Day in Polish History

Saturday, June 15, 2024

Wawel Hill

The next morning, we met our guide Johanna and walked to Wawel Hill, home to Kraków’s iconic Wawel Castle. Perched above the Vistula River, the castle complex dates back to the 14th century, though the site has been inhabited since the 4th century.

The Legend of the Wawel Dragon

One version of the legend (there are many) of Smok Wawelski, the dragon, claims that this troublesome monster lived in the limestone cave at the base of Wawel Hill and liked to eat maidens. Knights came from all over to slay the dragon but instead were eaten alive. It took a shoemaker to devise a plan to kill the dragon by offering it a sheep with sulfur sewn inside which the dragon ate and then died. For his reward he married the princess. Today, there is a statue of the dragon that occasionally spews fire at the base of Wawel Hill reminding us of the city’s very own famous dragon.

Wawel Castle

Our tour began with the castle’s Royal Apartments, brimming with centuries-old treasures: ornate armor, tapestries, and murals depicting Poland’s storied past. We also explored an Oriental Art exhibition, featuring intricate artifacts from 17th-century Turkey.

The National Shrine

Next up was a visit to Wawel Cathedral is the sacred center of Krakow and possibly the entire country. Sigismund Chapel is notable for its 24kt gold domb. Since the 1300’s kings and other notable Poles have been coronated and buried here. You can see the actual sarcophagi tombs carved with images of the dead. Even the national hero, Tadeusz Kosciusko, who led American troops during the Revolutionary War, is buried here.

For Whom the Bells Toll

Of special interest, is climbing the 70 tight wooden steps up to the Cathedral bell tower. Here there is a great view of the castle and old town areas. But, our destination was the huge bells above us as we climbed.

View from the Wawel Cathedral Bell Tower

The huge, 12-ton Sigismond Bell (cast in 1520), is said to have a magical sound and is only rung on momentous occasions for Poland, such as national celebrations, major religious holidays, or times of great sorrow.

Of lesser importance, in the bell tower, but even more popular, is the Bell of St. John. The bell should be touched with the left hand while making a wish. especially in matters of the heart, such as love and marriage. Each of us touched the bell with our own private wish.

Old Buildings in the Old Town

We left the castle area to briefly view a few other historical buildings. The Papel Window in the bishop’s palace where favorite-son Karol Wojtyla (who later became Pope John Paul II) would address his followers, the Church of Saints Peter and Paul and the Jagiellonian University, one of the oldest universities in Europe (1364).

A Gothic Masterpiece

Chief among other nearby historical buildings St. Mary’s Basilica know for its magnificent stained-glass windows and famous altarpiece, a pentaptych by Veit Stoss, is said to be the greatest Gothic work of art in Poland.

Roaming Around

Our three hour tour ended with us heading toward Rynek Glowny (aka Rynek Main Marketplace) for lunch and then a nap back at our hotel, only a few blocks away.

We were surprised by the size of this plaza, said to be the biggest in Europe. In the middle of the plaza, was a large building called Cloth Hall, a very old medieval marketplace where vendors would sell goods, especially clothing. Tip: Here was a great place to buy amber jewelry and Boleslawiec pottery, specialties of this area. We found just what we needed to bring home at a reasonable price solving our souvenir anxiety quickly.

That evening we explored more of the Kazimierz and Old Town sections. We followed the crowds and found maybe the best Italian/pizza restaurant in town, Nolio’s. It was a very lively night with people of all ages, appreciating the good vibes and weather.

A Day of Reflection

Sunday, June 16, 2024

Auschwitz-Birkenau

Our final day in Kraków took a somber turn with a visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau. Located a short drive from the city, the concentration camp stands as a harrowing reminder of humanity’s capacity for cruelty. Touring the grounds was a powerful, emotional experience, leaving us with a renewed commitment to remembering and learning from history.

Auschwitz Entry Gate – (translation) “Work Will Set You Free”

Click here for my post on that visit including a video of our experience at Auschwitz- Birkenau.

A Celebration of Family

Returning to Kraków that evening, we marked Father’s Day with a celebratory dinner at Kogel Mogul, a Michelin-star restaurant specializing in gourmet Polish cuisine. The meal, a gift from Ethan’s wife Amanda, was the perfect way to cap off our journey.

A Michelin-star restaurant in Old Town called Kogel Mogul had been recommended to me by a friend. They specialized in gourmet Polish food. Both the food and service was outstanding and prices were reasonable for that level of quality. We would recommend it to anyone looking for a special dinner in Krakow.

Click here for my post “Eating Polish” for a broader review on eating everywhere on this tour in Poland.

England in Poland

Leaving the restaurant after a leisurely meal we walked around the old town which was still lively but less crowded. We followed a stream of people heading to what looked like a cellar bar with called the “English Football Club”. Seemed a bit out of place here in Poland but especially relevant because the Euro 2024 Tournament was underway, as my young grandson Ethan Luke (15 years old and a BIG “soccer” fan) reminded us.

We ended up in a jam-packed bar of what we presume were mostly British ex-pats cheering on the England against Serbia. Wow! For a few moments we were transported to a different part of Europe with all the spirit and camaraderie we seek in our travels. The crowd was so tight that we could not even buy a drink, which would have been nice but not necessary to enjoy the fun.

We continued exploring the Old Town section for a while that last night while father and son duked it out on where to go next. Next, would be back to the hotel for some sleep after a long day.

Final Thoughts

Kraków captivated us with its unique blend of history, culture, and modernity. Its welcoming atmosphere, vibrant neighborhoods, and proud heritage left an indelible impression. While we regretted not having time to explore every corner, we left with a deep appreciation for the city and its people—and a resolve to return.

As a Polish American, this journey was more than a vacation; it was a homecoming.

More On Our Polish Heritage Tour

See all photos for this tour here.

The following is my Goodreads review of an interesting historical period of change in the art world and in politics during the Cold War period. Truman, who was responsible for using the Atom bomb to end the war and in the act destroyed thousands of lives, meets Picasso who was a staunch pacifist and communist supporter. Truman sees “modern art” as “ham and eggs art” but recognizes Picasso’s talent and fame. Both are at the twilight of their careers.

Through a brief history of how modern art began to flourish and how politics was woven into art, Algeo provides and entertaining look at how the times changed art, politics and maybe even personal attitudes.
PK

When Harry Met Pablo: Truman, Picasso, and the Cold War Politics of Modern Art by Matthew Algeo

My rating: 4 of 5 stars

In the great tug of war of existential beliefs, there’s always a point and counterpoint. But, it’s a universal law that everything changes with the passing of time. Maybe we soften or maybe we learn to live with opposing points of view. This is a story of how contradictory lives and beliefs co-exist and come together, at least briefly, in odd and unexpected ways.

A photo of Picasso shaking hands with Truman seemed to have been the perfect set piece for Algeo’s travel back in time to explore a hopeful period where stark contractions co-existed. It was clear. There was a good, bad and ugly. But, in the post World War II era everything was re-aligning in art, music and politics.

Their 1958 meeting occurred during the cold war after one of the most violent and consequential periods known to man. Truman, a popular democratic everyman, used his might to win a war by unrepentantly authorizing the killing of millions to justify the end. Picasso, on the other hand, was a famous recluse artist who promoted peace and was an unrepentant communist. They were polar opposites in almost every way. If a photo is worth a thousand words this one was worth a thousand questions,

When Harry Meets Pablo provides an intriguing history of how the definition of art was changing in the mid 1900’s. The first half of the book paints a picture of how America was reacting to the awakening of a new form of “modern art” exemplified by Picasso and other European artists. The book discusses how the new art form was received and nurtured by creating such institutions as MoMA. Special gallery events and even a traveling show were promoted to allow the public to experience the new form of art. Even the government promoted a cultural awakening to art through the Advancing American Art program.

At the time of the “red scare”, a relatively unknown, but deeply conservative, Republican Michigan congressman named George A. Dondero played an outsized role in stopping government art programs, much as was played out in the McCarthy hearings at the time. He declared modern art an infiltration of communism and blacklisted many artists as communist sympathizers – even though communist dictators like Stalin would have nothing to do with it.

Slowly, in America, the existing convention of realistic art gave way to an acceptance of the modern style by the middle of the century. But not everyone agreed that this was “art”. Truman, for one, often called it “ham and eggs” art disparaging the skill and impact it had. He was not alone. But at least Harry appreciated the difference of opinion and fought for an artist’s freedom of expression.

The second half of the book offers a unique look at a world attempting to regain its post-war balance. After his presidency, Truman planned to slip away to his Missouri home from Washington on a public train and once again lead a normal civilian life. Harry soon learned that the public was still interested in his life and thoughts. He was chased down by fans and the press everywhere he went.

Sam Rosenman, an ex-judge and close advisor to Franklin Roosevelt helped create the New Deal strategy. He was to continue to become a “consiglieri” to Harry while he was president. He and his wife Dorothy became close personal friends with Harry and Bess. Sam’s law partner Ralph Colin, a well-known collector of modern art and trustee at MoMA, educated Sam on the new modern style. Soon, Rosenman and Truman were two friends with at least one contrary point of view – “What is art”?

Truman asked Rosenman and his wife Dorothy to join him and Bess on a European vacation in mid-1958. The cross-Atlantic voyage by ship would take them to ports in Italy and eventually Cannes in France. Coincidentally, Picasso’s home was in Vallauris, in the hills above Cannes

A plot for a meeting was apparently hatched clandestinely by Alfred Barr, founder and chief executive of MoMA who had helped Picasso gain recognition in America and wanted to promote modern art. Truman a family man of modest means was to meet Picasso, a rich and famous womanizer at Picasso’s home. No doubt Sam Rosenman also had a hand in arranging the meeting. But how was that to be done when the two men, in the twilight of their careers, seemed to have nothing in common except their age?

Here’s where the story becomes hazy as Picasso, famously a recluse, graciously agrees to meet with Truman at his Villa La Californie for the day. The Truman’s and Rosenman’s spend most of the day together with Picasso graciously showing them around his studio and nearby town famous for his pottery. There is no real reporting of what transpired between them but photos seem to reveal a cordial if not enjoyable visit. We see photos and speculate what that day might have been. The rest is up to our imagination.

The meeting made a small story buried in the news, as other world events stole the limelight. We don’t know if the meeting made an impact on anyone. Perhaps it just was a courteous and friendly call or maybe a sign that time had soften the difference between different points of view. Not knowing the details, leaves the reader with unanswered questions of what might have happened when opposites come together.

View all my reviews

Click below for Matt Algeo’s entertaining November 2022 book presentation at the Harry S. Truman library via CSPAN.

Category: art

Three Days in Kraków

A Timeless City